PC: “I have always been fascinated with plant extracts and their effect on the skin. Working as a pharmacist in a clinic for over 10 years and having listened to patient’s concerns made me realise that there was a need for serious clean skincare compatible with the delicate composition of sensitive, reactive skin. During five years of research I identified twelve natural and organic extracts which I believe are essential to keep the skin healthier for longer, hence the name.
PC: “I have been studying botany for over 20 years so I am more aware of natural ingredients than synthetic ingredients. Being a botanical pharmacist it was the right path to take. Besides I do pay extra attention to how all the ingredients I use are extracted by visiting all our suppliers. I also analyse every single batch of floral extracts that arrive in our studio and I prefer to use cleaner products like organic ingredients.”
PC: “I am a big fan of traditional ingredients but at the same time I understand the market is hungry for exotic ingredients which I am not so keen on usually due to poor sustainability. One of the rarest things you’ll find in TWELVE is the tiny molecule of hyaluronic acid which I personally encapsulate in the lab to make it soluble in oils and to enhance skin penetration (used in the TWELVE Hyaluroil lip treatment).”
PC:”The only synthetic ingredient I use is a preservative called Dehyroacetic acid which is globally approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS formulations. Preservatives do not have good publicity but they are necessary to preserve formulae (except 100% oil products).”
PC:”The choice of natural ingredients is smaller compared with the traditional or classic beauty industry. I think the smooth silky skin feel that silicones provide is difficult to achieve. Also preservation is difficult in natural beauty products. There are several ingredients which act as a preservative called “non preservatives”. It is a great choice for natural formulators but it is difficult to achieve the same level of efficacy as traditional preservatives.”
PC:”‘Alcohol’ as we know it can be seen as ‘alcohol denat’, ‘ethanol’ and ‘ethyl alcohol’. However there are other natural ingredients that contain the word ‘alcohol’ such as ‘cetearyl alcohol’ and ‘behenyl alcohol’. Despite their names these are a completely different substance with a distinct set of properties – they are not ‘alcohol’ as we know it – normally they are emollients and used for consistency. The important thing for consumers is that ‘alcohol’ always dries the skin no matter its origin, even the ones extracted from sugar or organically grown plants.
PC: “As a formulator I know how difficult it is to create a product so I do not want to criticize other brands despite how some are greenwashed. To me natural beauty is a totally clean natural beauty product. However there are some natural ingredients that can irritate the skin such as essential oils, sodium phynate (to capture impurities) and potassium sorbate (natural preservative). My advice is to try before you buy.”
PC:”Of course, in countries like Germany and Austria, natural beauty is almost mainstream. Customers over there are so familiar with natural beauty. The UK is completely different to the rest of the world. The market is still niche although everyday more people are aware of the benefits of natural beauty. The extraordinary thing over here is the fact that customers are very loyal and embrace a complete healthier lifestyle. They are very well informed, are very discerning and know exactly what they want.”
PC:”It is all about hydration and repair. A good regenerating cream is a must. The skin appears dry and the tone dull. It is important to keep the skin super hydrated to ensure the right cell turnover. Also oils rich in linoleic acid are great to repair the epidermis. My top ingredient for the summer is buddleja extract. This powerful plant helps the skin cells repair any possible damage after sun exposure.”
PC:”The Ideal Brightening Corrective Serum is one of the most complete products of the range. It works wonders on dull skin and of course the skin can always benefit from moisture and radiance.”
PC:”We focus on food, exercise and beauty products but I think stress is the real enemy for the skin. Stress plays havoc on skin. When we are stressed we tend to generate more free radicals which are the real culprits responsible for skin ageing. We need to take the time, to step back, breathe, exhale and meditate.”
PC:”Lots of exciting launches. Customers have been suggesting new products and I have been listening to them so watch this space.”